Essays, sutra commentaries, and dispatches from our guides — written between Bodhgaya, Hemis, and Eihei-ji. New entries each fortnight, drafted by the people leading next month's circuit.
The first morning of His Holiness's December teachings, two hundred thousand pilgrims fill the temple grounds before sunrise. We held a small group of twelve in a reserved monastery and walked them through the seven weeks Siddhartha sat after his awakening — one place each day, in the order he is said to have walked them.
The Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta in Pali, two Tibetan commentaries, a Burmese chant transcription, and a 21st-century English. What changes; what does not.
"Here the Buddha was born." Eight words in Brahmi, carved 2,300 years ago. We sat with the epigrapher who first re-translated it, and walked the garden with her notes.
The quietest of the eight great places. A simple practice for the hour you have at the reclining Buddha — adapted from a Sōtō teisho given at the same spot in 1934.
The Chinese pilgrim who walked from Xi'an to Bihar in the 7th century kept a diary. We read his five-year residency at Nalanda alongside the current excavation reports.
The reading list we send to every pilgrim eight weeks before departure. Four sutras, three histories, two memoirs, three contemporary commentaries.
Twenty-five years of running the India circuit, and the route still bends back to the Mahabodhi at the end. A note on why the same place feels different on the way out.
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