Around the sacred garden where the Buddha was born, a second, modern Lumbini has risen: a vast planned landscape of monasteries, canals and trees, conceived so that the whole Buddhist world could build beside the birthplace.
In 1978 the Japanese architect Kenzō Tange designed the Lumbini Development Zone as a three-mile axis, with the sacred garden at the south, a monastic zone in the middle divided by a long central canal — Theravada monasteries on the east bank, Mahayana and Vajrayana on the west — and a "flame of peace" and museum to the north. It is still being completed, monastery by monastery, decade by decade.
The result is a place unlike any other: within a single morning you pass the German-built Great Lotus Stupa, the golden Myanmar temple, the Chinese monastery with its imperial roofs, the Korean, Thai, French, Cambodian and Vietnamese halls. We ride the zone by cycle-rickshaw in the cool of the morning, stopping where the group wishes — a gentle, moving portrait of how one birth became a faith for half of Asia and beyond.
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